tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-87953804607300471982024-02-09T06:51:39.956+11:00Standing SmallUnknownnoreply@blogger.comBlogger52125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-47990455673231602792013-08-30T12:15:00.002+10:002013-08-30T14:45:50.819+10:00On My Painting Table - Dwarf Gyrocopter - Intital AssemblyLooking through my Lead Pile, I have finally decided to tackle the neglected Dwarf Gyrocopter. This is the metal model, but not the original design.<br />
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I had purchased this model a few years ago, and it had been roughly stripped of its bad paintjob. It has since sat my lead pile unloved until now. I did manage to find all the pieces, except for the pilot, and started piecing this model together. I tested all the joins, and quickly realised that this model has got some serious problems. There are pieces that need to joined, that simply will not “glue” together, as there is not enough surface area. This was mainly the rotor blades, but also the landing skids and the vertical stabilizer (the thing at the back which swings from left-to-right).<br />
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After staring at the rotor blades for a while, and trying to figure out, how I was going to attach them to each other. I found myself with no real answers. They were too thin to pin, there wasn’t enough surface area to just glue them. I did consider creating some sort of custom support structure that sits under each blade and attaches to the rotor shaft, but that seemed way too difficult and time consuming. So I did what I always do, when I need some helpful tips. I turned to the internet, and did a Google search on “Dwarf Gyrocopter Rotor Blades”. I wanted to see how other people tackled the problem of attaching the Gyrocopter rotor blades. This is a summary of what I found:<br />
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<li><strong>Method 1.</strong> Use a small 8mm washer, under the rotor blades. Glue the rotor blades to the washer. The washer is naturally visible, but when painted it looks acceptable.<br /> </li>
<li><strong>Method 2.</strong> It is possible to pin the rotor blades together but, you need to be very careful. Using superglue and green-stuff really helps to keep it all together.<br /> </li>
<li><strong>Method 3.</strong> Soldering the rotor blades together is do-able, but you really have to be careful, because the heat can really damage/destroy the actual blades.<br /> </li>
<li><strong>Method 4.</strong> Use a product called JB Weld. It can be purchased from any auto supply store. It is used for small body repairs. The problem is that it takes a while to fully dry. You need to let it set for a couple of days before it is fully dry.<br /> </li>
<li><strong>Method 5.</strong> Don’t use the rotor blades on your Gyrocopter. Instead, get some clear plastic like the stuff used on food packaging and cut out a circular disc, the same diameter as the completed rotor assembly. Use a black marker to draw 3 fuzzy lines on the circular disc. Attach this to the Gyro, and now it looks like the rotor blades are spinning, and truly flying.<br /> </li>
<li><strong>Method 6.</strong> Don’t use the Gyrocopter model at all. Simply make your own proxy model, with something else.</li>
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It was really interesting to see how different people tackled this problem. I was initially interested in soldering my rotor blades together, but I wasn’t really concerned, that if it went wrong, it would be disastrous, and I would have some real damage on my hands. So finally I decided to try and use the pinning method. I did have some reservations, regarding drilling into such thin parts, but carefully and slowly I did manage to pin my model together. Once I did the rotor blades, I then proceeded to use the pinning technique on ALL the parts which needed to be joined. I have taken photos of the process.</div>
I used the standard Citadel pin vice, and ordinary paper clips. One paper clip provided all the pinning power I needed.<br />
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Here are the photos.<br />
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Here is proof that it is possible to drill a hole and glue a paper clip pin, into the thin rotor blades of this model. You can also see the pins used in the other parts of the model.</div>
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The pins have been passed all the way through the metal. I did this for extra stability. Once everything was dry, the pins were clipped very close to the model, and they are no longer visible.</div>
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Here is another view of the pins passing through the horizontal stabilizer.</div>
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The three rotor blades have been 'dry' fitted, but they have not been glued yet. I will probably use some green stuff as part of this process to make sure it really secure.</div>
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This is the model so far. I still need to attach the rotor assembly to the rotor shaft. I am thinking of using magnets for this joint. This may help when the model is transported or accidentally dropped. </div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-34353829564787856642013-08-28T11:14:00.004+10:002013-08-30T12:27:22.022+10:00On My Painting Table - Wizard Repaint (update)I have been working on this wizard some more, and I am happy with the progress. I have removed some (not all) of the shine from his robes. I created a new paint additive, using a mix of matt medium and flow improver, and used this to make a dark purple wash, which I applied to the robes. I also used this new creation and made a black wash, which seems to perform a lot like GW's Badab Black, but I need to test it some more, before I can say, it is the same sort of thing. You can see this black wash on the wizard's hand, the one which is hold the staff. It looks like the old fashioned "Black lining", that used to be painted on minis, back in the 90s. I also created a new flesh tone, quite by accident, but I think I like it more than the "official" flesh colours produced by GW. Again, I will need to experiment some more, and see if I like it.<br />
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The next step is to clean up the base, as well as apply some actual basing material to it.</div>
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Here are the photos.</div>
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-23474001282813705932013-08-28T10:32:00.002+10:002013-08-28T12:38:31.261+10:00Tools of the Trade - IntroductionAll jobs require tools. And for our hobby of painting miniature men, we have very specific tools. The obvious ones, are paints and paint brushes, but there are other tools as well. Everyone has their favourites, and not everyone uses the same kind of tools. I have been sourcing and collecting useful items (tools) for my painting table, since I started this hobby. I now have a very comfortable set-up, and I believe having such a comfortable set-up, makes this hobby more enjoyable. There is nothing more frustrating than not have the right tool for the job. I would like to start a series called "Tools of the Trade" on my blog, which looks at all the tools and items I have accumulated over the years that helps me with my hobby. I am not saying that everyone needs to go out and purchase these items, but it may be useful for people to see what I have and what I use.<br><br>
A very important rule that I follow, is to try to acquire my tools as cheaply as possible, while still maintaining a high quality item. I grew up with a father who was a cabinet maker, and I used to watch him work. I quickly learned that there is no substitute for a good quality tool, so I try to avoid purchasing sub-standard tools. Having said that, I still like to source them as cheap as possible. <br><br>
The types of tools I plan on covering in this series are; Paint Brushes, Paint Brush Cleaners, Paint Additives, Wet Palette, Dry Palette, Wash Tray, Water Containers, Model Scrapper, Exacto Knife, Medical Scalpels, Dental Picks, Model/Jewellers files, Clippers, Scissors, Pliers, Rulers, Cutting Matts, a Variety of Storage Containers, Drying Racks, Paint Racks, Lighting and more...Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-23533260932919445502013-08-26T14:03:00.000+10:002013-08-30T14:42:45.763+10:00On My Painting Table - Wizard Repaint<div style="border-bottom: medium none; border-left: medium none; border-right: medium none; border-top: medium none;">
After moving my painting table to my room, it has been a LOT easier to just pickup some painting time, between being a father to my children (and being a grown-up in general). I find that I paint something, then leave it, and go and do grown-up stuff, like cook, clean, wash, mentor, tidy, organise, fix, etc..and then give myself a 15 minute break to go back and paint some more. I find that this works really well, except the fact that my 15 minutes usually turns out to be about 30 minutes. </div>
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Here is a photo of what I have been painting. </div>
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This is a wizard that was in my lead pile. It has been a LONG time, since I painted a wizard, so I simply started painting over him. I didn't bother stripping him back to bare metal. I was just keen to start painting. I used purple ink (amongst other paints), and it has left a shiny area in some of the recesses. I will need to go back to fix this up. Just in case you were wondering he is not finished yet.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-51390411022503123662013-08-20T13:44:00.001+10:002013-08-30T14:43:48.419+10:00On my Painting Table - HobgoblinsI have returned to painting these hobgoblins, and I am making progress on their skin, and the highlights of their robes. I am happy with most of the progress, but I did do some silly things, which I am not happy about. I drybrushed over some of my highlights, which was really sloppy and crude, which I now need to fix. <br />
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The weapons are not finished (or not even started), and I need to base them. Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-83313718152558293002013-08-20T13:35:00.000+10:002013-08-20T13:39:43.333+10:00New (Temporary) Painting TableI thought long and hard, whether to set up my painting table in a new part of the house, or whether I would wait for the leaking roof to be fixed, and then resume painting again. I finally decided that I couldn't wait any longer, so I measured up my old painting table, with the water damaged top. I took those measurements to my bedroom, and after moving some stuff around, I SQUEEZED the old painting table into its new (temporary) home. <br />
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It is not perfect, and it is a tight fit, but it works for now. At least I can get some much needed painting done. I will take photos of it when i put my paints, brushes and other tools back into place. Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-75855979507124325942013-08-12T11:18:00.000+10:002013-08-19T11:27:04.452+10:00Water DamageMy hobby table has been damaged by a leaking roof. After a bad storm, the roof over my hobby room, let in a lot of (unwanted) rain. The rain poured all over my painting table, via a downlight. The vintage (1950s) wooden table was completely soaked, and table top is ruined. I really liked that table, I still remember when and where I purchased it from, back in 1997. All the papers, sticker sheets and labels on the table, were ruined (luckily my painting dairy was in a different area, and was not damaged). My paints, paintbrushes, tools and minis did get wet, but were salvaged (mostly). A few minis had their bases ruined, and some labels on my paint bottles are a little crinkled or torn, but this was minor damage.<br />
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Anyway, the roof is currently being looked at by our insurance company, and is still not repaired. It has been about 4 weeks now. The quote I received was AUD$8000 (about USD$8000) to replace the entire roof. Which at the moment I simply cannot afford. So I have packed everything up, and stored them a couple of large boxes/crates, and I am catching the leaking water in a bucket.<br />
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Here are some photos.<br />
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Here is the bucket catching all the leaking water.<br />
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Here is what my painting table did look like. <br />
<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-82713914522636855622013-05-19T20:39:00.000+10:002013-05-20T11:00:45.446+10:00My Ork skin formulaI am sharing my ork skn paint formula. I personally don't like bright green skin on my orks or orcs, so I try and paint them a little darker and a little less green. How do I make green, less green. It's sile, I mix in some brown. <br />
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<b>Painting the Ork skin</b><br />
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1. Undercoat black.<br />
2. Mix Flat Earth (VMC) and Scorpion Green (GW), at about a 4:1 ratio, and paint 2-3 thin layers.<br />
3. Mix some Filthy Brown (VMC) into the above mix, and paint the raised areas if the Ork skin, like the muscles in the arms.<br />
4. Add a small amount of White to the mix, and lightly over-brush the skin.<br />
5. Apply a few wash layers of Devlan Mud and Badab Black, to the skin area.<br />
6. Finally lightly drybrush some Foundation Knarloc Green (GW) over the skin, and your done.</td> </tr>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-44361052516951547072013-05-11T11:42:00.000+10:002013-05-11T11:49:55.915+10:00My Original Minis - Part 2Here are some orcs I painted in the 80s. If I recall correctly these were some of the earliest slotta minis I purchased. I didn't have any other orcs, so these guys were never part of any army. I dry brushed these with too much white. At least they are matt. I'm fairly sure these were painted with Tamiya paints.<br />
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<br />Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-81173109048444564562013-05-11T09:35:00.002+10:002013-05-11T10:00:38.381+10:00My Original Minis - Part 1I still own most of my minis from the 80s. I was definitely not a good painter back (I'm only slightly better now - ha ha ha). So I thought it would be a good idea to share these early minis from my collection. Most of them still have their original paint job.
Here is the first photo.
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The mini was painted using enamels, which I purchased these from a local hobby store. The paints were intended for plastic model kits, and not minis. I had to use my father's turpentine to clean my brushes. Oh what a mess.<br />
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You can see an early attempt at black-lining between the feet and the pantaloons. I don't think I black-lined anything ever again.<br />
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I would love to re-paint these minis, especially the one on the left.
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-52577631598804794552013-05-10T12:40:00.002+10:002013-05-19T22:52:16.877+10:00Bugman's Dwarf RangersMy first minis I ever painted were the Citadel Dwarfs from the mid to late 80s, and even though I collected a few blisters of Imperial Dwarfs (I'll post photos of my early work, sometime soon), I never had enough funds to aquire a whole army. One of my desires was to own Bugman's Dwarf Rangers. In my mind it was a "must have" unit for my Dwarf army. Now, it is some 25 years later and I have just received the last few minis to make up my own Bugman's Dwarf Rangers. <br />
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These have taken about 2-3 years to collect. They have come from various sources. I am now ready to get them preped for painting. Some paint stripping, some undercoating and I am ready to paint my childhood (teenagehood) dream of a unit of Bugman's Dwarf Rangers.<br />
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I know, I am missing the musician, and I have find shields for them, but I am farily happy with my little unit. Here they are in their current state. I plan on posting more photos of these guys as I start painting them.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-4084932052979115222013-05-10T11:33:00.001+10:002013-05-10T22:18:57.648+10:00I'm back - what have I been doing?It has been a long time since I have posted on my blog. Actually it has been a long time, since I have had any time for my miniatures. Life has been very interesting in the last 6 months. I have taken some time out for myself, and to look after my health. I have separated from my wife, after 10 years of Marriage, and life has been a little hard for me. The good news is that I am doing OK! and because of that I want to return to the hobby that give ME a lot of pleasure, and that is painting little toy soldiers. <strong>So I am back.</strong>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-40714478170857090512012-10-05T14:32:00.002+10:002013-05-11T11:45:36.568+10:00Creating my first Paper Building for wargamingHello everyone. I have always wanted to make my own paper buildings for wargaming, and for many reasons, I have was unable to do so - Until Now. Here is my first attempt a creating a paper based model/terrain piece for a wargaming table.<br />
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It is a small brick and plaster house, with a slate roof. It has no windows (at the moment), and was created using Photoshop and Illustrator. It is about 28mm in scale. I have photographed it, with a Flintloque mini for scale comparison. <br />
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I can already see some changes I want to make to this model, as well as a plethora of future models, but I think it is "not too shabby" for a first attempt. Comments and feedback are always welcome. <br />
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I am influenced by the Dave Graffams Models (<a href="http://www.davesgames.net/" target="_blank">www.davesgames.net</a>). The quality of his paper models are top notch. <br />
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Enjoy the pictures:<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-29581351605111711032012-10-02T06:52:00.000+10:002012-10-02T06:52:26.830+10:00I'm taking a little break from the hobbyI have not had much time for the hobby in last few months. I have spent most of my free time on getting myself into a more health state. I have some ongoing health issues, like I am sure most of us do, but in the last 4-5 weeks, I have just foucused my energy on my health, which means my hobby time has completely diminished. I plan on coming back soon, I am just not sure when. I am thinking it will be a few (5-10)weeks before I return.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-5884021645869406192012-08-16T19:25:00.002+10:002012-08-17T09:21:34.096+10:00Paint Tips - Paint Additivies - WindexI have started using windex as a paint addititive, primarily to thin my paint, especially to use it as a wash and also as a glaze/juice. I really like what windex does to the paint, and with my style of painting many thin layers, as opposed to one (or two) thicker coats, I find the windex is a great additive.<br />
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Here are a couple of pointers<br />
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<li>I dillute my windex with water, in about 1:3 ratio. That is, 1 part Windex and 3 parts water.</li>
<li>The blue tint of the windex does not effect the tint of the paint.</li>
<li>Windex has been used by air-brush users for years. So it is not a "new fad".</li>
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I will post some photos of minis, painted with paint thinned with Windex, shortly.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-60714486515430291742012-08-14T12:06:00.000+10:002012-10-05T14:48:40.441+10:00Flintloque, Imperial Guard and The Goon SquadI have still been painting, but not as much as I would like to. My new Graphic Design course is taking up a lot of my spare time, and so I don't get time to spend at my painting table. I don't have too much to report,so I will simply post some pictures of what i have painted recently.<br />
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These minis were painted for the "2012 Painting League" over at <a href="http://www.chaos-dwarfs.com/" target="_blank">CDO</a>.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-70154817288300718472012-08-01T12:55:00.000+10:002012-08-14T12:55:47.144+10:00Thor Modelling Studio<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;">
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<a href="http://thor-modelling.blogspot.com.au/" target="_blank">Thor Modelling Studio</a></div>
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This blog was recommended to me by a fellow wargame painter/modeller, so I went over and had a look. It isis a really great site. This guy has a lot of modelling talent, and has produced a good amount of tutorials, which are quite useful to any wargamer. Go over and have a look.</div>
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The blog is written in Thai, and I had Google translate it for me, but it does translate very badly. If you can get past the bad english translation, then this blog is certainly work a look. I am going back there now, for another good look around.</div>
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Enjoy.</div>
Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-29476100950491037412012-07-11T15:04:00.003+10:002012-07-11T15:12:01.253+10:00Quar PostersIt has been a while since I have posted something here. That is because I now have even less free time than I have ever had, as I have returned to school, to study my life long passion of Art & Design, in this case Graphic Design. I am really enjoying it, and my spare time is now spent reading and doing homework for this course.
It is now the mid-semester break, and so I have taken the oportunity to combine my grpahic design skills (I have gained some), with my love for wargaming and modelling.
I have started creating some 28mm posters for the Quar world. The following question was asked by 'magog001' over that Quar forums;
<blockquote>the turn of the century was the advertiseing heyday for household goods
what sort of adverts would be on qaur billboards
for example = "thrips patented moth suace!, all the mothy taste non of the mothy waste!"
or "lwrs soap" with picture of a comedicly dirty qaur kit
basicly thngs i can paste posters to the side of biuldings im makeing and such
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Here is link to whole thread: http://www.quarinvasion.com/forum/viewtopic.php?t=1933
That was enough for me to spend some time using Photoshop. After a few hours, this is what i came up with;
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I hope you guys enjoy. Feel free to download, print and attach these to your wargaming terrain. If you do, please post photos, I would love to see them.
<b>Note:</b> Most of these are "Derivative Works", which means they are based on other artwork or images.Unknownnoreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-24080137545400139722012-03-25T14:08:00.000+11:002012-03-25T14:08:52.080+11:00Autumn LeavesThis is my attempt at making Autumn Leaves. They are made from real autumn leaves which have been "crushed". They look alright, but not as nice as some other Autumn leaves I have seen on the internet. Mine don't look like leaves, as much as it looks like ground cover in general, and the main reason is the shape. If I had crushed these leaves more, then they would make great "scatter" material. - Maybe that can be my next project.<br />
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My Autumn Leaves<br />
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My Autumn Leaves<br />
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My Original Mini Tripod<br />
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New New Mini Tripod<br />
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About a year ago, I purchased a box of 2nd hand Space Marines, and I had intentions of painting them up into the "United Nations" colours. I tried a few test models, but I wasn't entirely satisfied. Which was more of an issue with my painting skill, rather than my colour scheme. So, instead I looked for a different colour scheme, and I think I have found something I like. Here are a few samples of what I want to do.<br />
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Here is the original colour scheme for th "United Nations" Marines.</div>
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-47237797771691839502011-12-15T18:46:00.000+11:002012-08-16T18:51:13.429+10:00Bull Centaur - Flesh ColouredI know that the traditional colour scheme for a Bull Centaur is red, but I personally don't like red skin, unless it is on a demon. Here is my version of a Bull Centaur.<br />
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Unknownnoreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-26561510665326794462011-11-13T20:08:00.000+11:002011-11-13T20:08:12.588+11:00Inspiration - New & Old - 3Here is a book cover which made me want to not only collect oriental minis, but also play oriental based Role Playing Games. <br />
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<div class="separator" style="clear: both; text-align: center;"><a href="http://www.majhost.com/gallery/g2/miniatures2/g2sinspiration03.jpg" imageanchor="1" style="margin-left: 1em; margin-right: 1em;"><img border="0" nda="true" src="http://www.majhost.com/gallery/g2/miniatures2/g2sinspiration03.jpg" /></a></div>Unknownnoreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-8795380460730047198.post-55893216804124886732011-11-09T02:30:00.000+11:002011-11-09T02:30:09.416+11:00Oriental OgreYou know how there are some minis, that when you see them for the first time, you know that you must have them for your collection. Well this lovely mini was one of those minis for me.<br />
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I first saw a picture of him in White Dwarf, back in the 80s. And I really want him. Well the truth of matter is, I never received the oportunity to purchase him, as Citadel miniatures were not all available (not easily anyway) in Melbourne Australia, back in the 80s. So he never was mine, until about 3 months ago, when I bought him from someone in the UK via eBay. He sat unpainted on my shelf, until a few days ago, and even though his base is not finished, I wanted to show you some photos.<br />
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